How to Read an SGS Test Report for Suede

Why SGS specifically?

SGS (Société Générale de Surveillance) is one of the most widely recognised testing bodies in the footwear and leather goods industry. More importantly for buyers: an SGS report under the Adidas A-01 standard is accepted by procurement teams at most major brands without further qualification. It's not the only credible lab — Bureau Veritas, Intertek, and TÜV all carry comparable weight — but it's the one you'll encounter most often when evaluating Chinese suppliers, and the one most commonly specified in brand RSL programmes.

The cover page: useful but incomplete

The cover page tells you the report number, the issuing laboratory, the client (the supplier who commissioned the test), the date, and a summary result — usually "Passed" or "Failed." This is where most people stop reading. Don't.

The cover page doesn't tell you which specific parameters were tested, what the detection limits were, or whether the tested sample actually matches the material you're being offered. All of that is in the body of the report.

The sample description: the most overlooked section

Before you look at any test results, check the sample description carefully. It should state the material type, colour, and ideally a batch or lot reference. Ask yourself: does this match the material I'm evaluating?

A report on "brown leather suede, bag grade" is not valid documentation for "blue suede, footwear grade." The dye chemistry is different, and dye-related parameters — azo dyes, disperse dyes, some heavy metals — are colour-specific. Suppliers sometimes present reports on a "similar" material when they don't have a test on the exact material you're asking about. Push back and ask for a test on the actual specification.

Key codes: what they mean for suede

Under the Adidas A-01 standard, materials are classified by key code, which determines which test parameters apply. The ones relevant to suede:

Key Code	Category	Relevant for
100	Natural leather (including recycled leather)	Footwear uppers, insoles, linings
200	Synthetic leather / PU	Footwear uppers, accessories
300	Textiles	Lining fabrics, webbing

Recycled leather suede should be tested under Key Code 100 — the natural leather classification. This carries the most comprehensive parameter set. If a supplier shows you a Key Code 200 report for what they're describing as leather-based recycled suede, ask why. It may indicate the material was reclassified to avoid more demanding test requirements.

The parameter table: what to actually check

The core of the report is a table with each parameter, the test method, the permitted limit, the detected value, and the result. Here's how to read each column:

The limit column

This is the maximum permitted concentration for a restricted substance. Limits are in mg/kg (equivalent to parts per million) or sometimes µg/m² for surface-applied substances like PFOS. Common limits under Adidas A-01 for footwear leather:

Parameter	Adidas A-01 limit (Key Code 100)
pH value	3.2 – 5.5
Hexavalent chromium (CrVI)	≤ 3 mg/kg
Formaldehyde	≤ 75 mg/kg
Each regulated azo dye amine	≤ 30 mg/kg
Total lead	≤ 90 mg/kg
PFOS	≤ 1 µg/m²

The result column and detection limits

Results are either a specific concentration or ND — not detected. The key detail that most buyers miss: ND always needs a detection limit in brackets to be meaningful.

"Formaldehyde: ND (<5 mg/kg)" means the test detected nothing above 5 mg/kg — well below the 75 mg/kg limit. That's reassuring. "Formaldehyde: ND" without a detection limit tells you the concentration was below some threshold you don't know. That's not useful information.

When comparing supplier reports, check the detection limits against the regulatory limits. If the detection limit is higher than the regulatory limit — which occasionally happens with lower-quality test programmes — the test is effectively unable to detect concentrations that would fail the standard. This is rare but worth catching.

Common questions when reviewing a report

The report is 18 months old — is it still valid?

Most brand RSL programmes accept reports up to 24 months old, provided the formulation hasn't changed. Beyond 24 months, a fresh test is typically required. If a supplier's most recent report is approaching that threshold, it's reasonable to ask whether they have a new test scheduled.

The supplier showed me a certificate, not the full report

A certificate is a summary — it states that a material passed, but doesn't show the underlying data. Always ask for the full report. The certificate alone doesn't let you verify detection limits, confirm the sample description matches your spec, or check that all the relevant parameters were actually tested.

The report covers a different colour than what I'm ordering

For most chemical parameters this is fine — the base chemistry doesn't change with colour. But for dye-related parameters (azo dyes, disperse dyes), the test is colour-specific. A report on black suede doesn't guarantee the same result for red or blue suede using different dyes. For these parameters, you either need a report on the specific colour, or documentation showing the dye batch has been tested separately.